Schober Motorsports
Well-Known Member
Hey buddy sorry about that. Just sent you a message!
Also to everyone, thank you for adding all your advice and experiences!
Stock 440 Block Horsepower Limit
- Thread starter Schober Motorsports
- Start date
Also to everyone, thank you for adding all your advice and experiences!
- Local time
- 4:23 AM
- Joined
- Mar 28, 2014
- Messages
- 34,940
- Reaction score
- 57,120
- Location
- South Louisiana
I "think" that is you making an "inside joke". I'm not quite up to speed on that, but that is the jist I get.
That's ok. I am going to make the decision, just looking for anyone who had 6bbl stroker build experience and could make an informed recommendation.
1967coronet440
Well-Known Member
Ya just a little sarcasm poking fun at him, his motor has been being built for 10 months I think? Wish I could help you out, there’s a member here local to me that builds mopar motors, I’ve been to hisngarage he has some pretty impressive builds going on, bought my T&D rockers from him.
bobtile
Well-Known Member
1967coronet440
Well-Known Member
Sorry man, mine took 9 months just glad I’m not alone
67 GTX
Well-Known Member
Can someone please explain to me what "cap walk" is?
- Local time
- 4:23 AM
- Joined
- Dec 4, 2009
- Messages
- 35,642
- Reaction score
- 46,332
- Location
- Pasadena, Texas
Some call it cap bounce....it's when the main caps bounce or move (walk) due to the forces placed on them from combustion. The main caps actually move around during high stress conditions. Steel is flexible and bends and twists. Crankshaft harmonics is actually the crank flexing......rods bend. Heck, even the block flexes too.
67 GTX
Well-Known Member
So the holes in the caps that fit over the bolts actually get elongated? Or do they remain the same and the cap itself just seems warped?
- Local time
- 4:23 AM
- Joined
- Mar 28, 2014
- Messages
- 34,940
- Reaction score
- 57,120
- Location
- South Louisiana
Dodge 330
Well-Known Member
The surface on the cap and block shows fretting or material loss. The holes in the cap are already slightly larger than the bolts or studs diameter. Clamping force is supposed to hold them against the block.
Even my Mega Block looks like this on #1 main. Rebalance helped as it was off over 50 grams on each end with the previous owners combo. My bet is it is due to crank flex SS much as anything else.
Doug
The Outlaw Rail
New Member
Exactly, my engine is around 1300hp on M-5. 1190 ON M-1.. No Problems after 2 years...1969 block filled. Eagle crank & rods. Ross pistons, Victor heads with countless hrs. Ported Tunnel Ram intake. 6-71 Blower at 39% over... And let me add..FelPro 1009 head gaskets ARP HEAD BOLTS.and VERY CAREFULLY ASSEMBLED . Normal Teardown for inspection every 4 to 6 months. I own my Machine Shop which is a plus..But It can be done
Schober Motorsports
Well-Known Member
Thanks for the post!
Since writing up this thread, I've gone through 3 blocks. All my engines ran 6.30's @ 107 mph (1/8 mile) in a 3550 lb car. All block failures were because of cracks. All blocks had a girdle installed and the 2nd and 3rd block was filled about an inch or so above the freeze plug line with Hardblok.
Block #1 developed a crack in the middle of the freeze plugs on the drivers side.
Block #2 had a massive cylinder crack and a strange "hotspot", I believe this was just a old block issue... Had 3 passes on it.
Block #3 was sitting for about 3 years, that ended up being a small crack in the cylinder wall just above where the Hardblok stopped.
Block #4 is coming back from the machine shop soon... Lets see how it goes!
Last edited:
The Outlaw Rail
New Member
Wow. I hate that you've had so much trouble my friend. I know it get irritating at times. But that beauty you got now should serve you very well.. Good luck with your new project
- Local time
- 4:23 AM
- Joined
- Mar 28, 2014
- Messages
- 34,940
- Reaction score
- 57,120
- Location
- South Louisiana
Kudos again to anyone wanting or "needing" to use a factory block.
I was just rereading this thread I'm watching and a lot has changed since my 2017 post.
My decision to get the "new and improved" Bill Mitchell aluminum RB block is simply that I am only going to be able to do this build once, and I'm having to do it in stages, originally because of funds available or lack thereof, and now add in product availability causing delays. It also made it easy to say "YES" to a 4.5 x 4.5 572 when we discussed displacement.
Anyway, even though
@IQ52 has made impressive power with longevity, knowing I've got targeted HP in the 6XX range and torque at 700 ft lbs, it didn't make sense in my desire to have a relatively "low maintenance" (I don't have the skills or time to do periodic engine teardown and put back together with "fresh parts" and most importantly, I have tremendous peace of mind in that the block can handle any power levels I'll ever see, and double that. The weight savings is nice, but to invest a lot of time and energy building an engine that's pushing or exceeding the limits of a factory block just doesn't fit my needs.
Again, KUDOS to those who do!
I was just rereading this thread I'm watching and a lot has changed since my 2017 post.
My decision to get the "new and improved" Bill Mitchell aluminum RB block is simply that I am only going to be able to do this build once, and I'm having to do it in stages, originally because of funds available or lack thereof, and now add in product availability causing delays. It also made it easy to say "YES" to a 4.5 x 4.5 572 when we discussed displacement.
Anyway, even though
@IQ52 has made impressive power with longevity, knowing I've got targeted HP in the 6XX range and torque at 700 ft lbs, it didn't make sense in my desire to have a relatively "low maintenance" (I don't have the skills or time to do periodic engine teardown and put back together with "fresh parts" and most importantly, I have tremendous peace of mind in that the block can handle any power levels I'll ever see, and double that. The weight savings is nice, but to invest a lot of time and energy building an engine that's pushing or exceeding the limits of a factory block just doesn't fit my needs.Again, KUDOS to those who do!
Dodge 330
Well-Known Member
We have ran 10.01 @ 133 in a 3,700 lbs. car with a stock block. No fill, no girdle and ARP main studs. A lightweight rotating assembly (Molnar crank, rods and Mahle pistons) and an rpm limit of 6500 is what keeps it alive IMO. That and sneaking up on the tune so you don't detonate. We pulled it apart this Winter. The caps and bearings look great. It has seen lots of passes with a 200 shot that had seen it do 10.33 but regularly 10.40's. The 250 shot ran the 10.0 second time out. Once sorted, we plan to drive it to the track, run a 9 and drive for ice cream. 
- Local time
- 4:23 AM
- Joined
- Mar 28, 2014
- Messages
- 34,940
- Reaction score
- 57,120
- Location
- South Louisiana
If you see the pResident's motorcade you may want to go on to the next closest ice cream vendor.
If they sonic good Block #1 water jacket crack is an easy stich pin repair. Block #3 gets a sleeve.
Doug
- Local time
- 4:23 AM
- Joined
- Mar 28, 2014
- Messages
- 34,940
- Reaction score
- 57,120
- Location
- South Louisiana
...or maybe that's why he is "involved" in the For Sale thread of a Bill Mitchell Products aluminum block...
I had my comment about "that seeming to be a great deal" removed from the thread, but that's the same block I bought, that I got a great deal on, and the asking price was even less than I paid. The only difference is mine came from BMP through my dealer/builder, but if you are buying it, congrats Schober!
Similar threads
