• When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.

Are you ready for a real weird one? Random NO spark from a MP electronic ignition system despite numerous parts swapped around...

These were new last night after a shower. They shred threads but stick! Most others just fall off.
I don’t need Band Aids when I’m stuck to the couch! Aging hands of mine develop some ugly cracks when I’m active.
Seems like you have a lot of bandages on ya in yer pics lol
For a partial use car, perhaps the best thing to do is go back to the origional points and condenser system. Look at all of the energy expended, smooth starting, better MPG, blazing additional horse power claimed, not to mention the additional dollar cost and hassle (on the road breakdowns) is lost...... that is of course, the affore mentioned issues (ECU AND COIL) are what you wish, then continue to shovel $$ into the situation OR every 10,000 miles or so, replace the points and condenser and enjoy the dependability of an origional ignition system. Personally, the Prestolite dual point distributor in the GTX gets new points every 4-5 years, starts every time and has NEVER broken down on the road (in 35+years).........the old Confucius saying: "fancy gizmos don't work and if they do work they quit working at the most inopportune time, cost the most dollars to fix".....the choice is yours as to which system you prefer......just my opinion of course......its amazing how many iterations of this issue is discussed.....
BOB RENTON
I ran my 66 Belvedere with a points system and did the same on several other cars that were street driven often. I even raced the Belvedere with a points system and that old thing was consistent as can be at the track but did do many other things to make the car consistent. The only other car that was as consistent was a 68 road runner with a factory style electronic setup using the chrome box. The major difference was the RR was that car ran a 10.60 and the Belvedere was a 19.60 car lol. I always knew when the points system needed attention but back in the late 80's and into the late 90's finding Blue Streak ignition parts was still easy and IMO, that stuff was the best out there. What's really freaky is that the 68 RR ran a 10.68 and the Belvedere ran a 19.66 and both of them ran that number consistently. The only time the Belvedere got faster was when I canned the 2.94 gears for a 4.10 and it ran an 18.10 best with that gear. Man, that was flying lol
 
Seems like you have a lot of bandages on ya in yer pics lol
Yeah, that is true. I don't cut easily but the skin on my hands does tend to develop cracks.
 
Yeah, that is true. I don't cut easily but the skin on my hands does tend to develop cracks.
Yup, you said that. Sounds like you have a very dry skin problem and the older you get, the worse that will be. Use hand cream and quit washing your hands in solvents. And the best way to use hand cream is to.....oh never mind :D
 
01 face 9.jpg
 
meter leads when crossed should zero out no matter what the setting is, ie ohms or volts. This is sop when using a meter. If the display does not zero the the meter is cheap and should not be trusted or you have a good meter with bad leads.
I disagree. I have never had a meter that showed zero on the lead test - and I don't buy cheap junk. My latest Fluke 179 shows at best 0.1 ohms on the leads test....and this meter cost me about $1,000 just last year.

:xscuseless:


20240325_092743.jpg
 
I disagree. I have never had a meter that showed zero on the lead test - and I don't buy cheap junk. My latest Fluke 179 shows at best 0.1 ohms on the leads test....and this meter cost me about $1,000 just last year.

:xscuseless:


View attachment 1634357
My meter is an old Sears Automotive Engine Analyzer that's about 55 years old lol
 
This terminal....

View attachment 1633862

No longer has a wire going to it.

View attachment 1633863
WHY don't you just eliminate the bulkhead connections (the way MOPAR did it) using MECHANICAL BOLTED CONNECTION FEED THRU CONNECTORS. The devices provide insulated independent connections on both sides of the fire wall in lieu of the Packard mechanical method, thereby eliminating or minimizing to potential for corrosion depicted.
Similar to this:
1711312903835.png

Adjusted to the number of wires, their gauge (ampacity) wanted or needed., thereby eliminating the "troublesome" Mopar connectors. It'll look different but to those who are retro-fitting EFI or brand X ignition system why would it matter? Mounting the feed thru terminals will require a little inspiration.....just a thought and my opinion.
BOB RENTON
 
I have that. I forget to use it.
Try to remember... It actually works & doesn't smell to bad... I often do a double dose... Pour some on, work it in then wait ten minutes & do it again... Skin on my hands rarely cracks anymore....
 
WHY don't you just eliminate the bulkhead connections (the way MOPAR did it) using MECHANICAL BOLTED CONNECTION FEED THRU CONNECTORS. The devices provide insulated independent connections on both sides of the fire wall in lieu of the Packard mechanical method, thereby eliminating or minimizing to potential for corrosion depicted.
Similar to this:
View attachment 1634377
Adjusted to the number of wires, their gauge (ampacity) wanted or needed., thereby eliminating the "troublesome" Mopar connectors. It'll look different but to those who are retro-fitting EFI or brand X ignition system why would it matter? Mounting the feed thru terminals will require a little inspiration.....just a thought and my opinion.
BOB RENTON
I'm sure he like me, wants to keep things looking stock....
 
Well, somewhat.
If this were some custom build, stuff like that may have some appeal. The problem with much of the "specialty" stuff is that the further you deviate from stock, the less help you can get when something needs repair.
 
Well, somewhat.
If this were some custom build, stuff like that may have some appeal. The problem with much of the "specialty" stuff is that the further you deviate from stock, the less help you can get when something needs repair.
To fix a problem, one must consider some innovation and deviate from the norm unless you like putting up with the same issues.
BOB RENTON
 
Or simply a propper service job on a not anymore daily driven car like someday in the past was? Most of the times that is enough, less job headaches and cheaper.

My 74 is/was a daily driver car untill dissasembled for a deep body job (REEEAAALLY A DAILY DRIVEN car, on a heavy transit city with 7 millions of ppl, also travelling all around the country with it) and after being serviced properly never got a big problem anymore, just small issues easy to solve like any other car… Or parts quality issues.

A WOW factor at shows and reunions when somebody looks at the engine bay or down the dash and notice the 90-100% of its system is still the original design and in working order (ammeter included LOL) is really cool and gives me a lot of proud about a well done job. Even more when you let them now is daily driven.
 
Last edited:
Hopefully when Kern Dog gives us weekly or monthly updates on his ignition system progress , he won’t bee soliciting his latest skin care products at the same time
 
Auto Transport Service
Back
Top