INTMD8
Well-Known Member
Yes that would be easier. The outermost sections of the firewall go directly into the cowl plenum.
What did you do to your Mopar today?
- Thread starter MustangAndy
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Yes that would be easier. The outermost sections of the firewall go directly into the cowl plenum.
You're a good friend. Sometimes folks (including us) need folks to step in and step up when it's needed.
Justasgood
Well-Known Member
Not me but a friend sprayed my hood and rear deck/window surround matte black.
my project for the day.... turns out there was only one bolt and gravity holding the bed on. .... someone is watching out for me.
in PA this is a perfict rust wise. im guessing it spent most of its life south of here.
in PA this is a perfict rust wise. im guessing it spent most of its life south of here.
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YY1
Well-Known Member
That's a pretty hard cut line on the deck/quarter.
That will be interesting when done.
What color for the rest of it?
that looks good. nice and even
Justasgood
Well-Known Member
nice....that looks good on her. can ya adjust that wing to be a bit more flat? or is that just how thay are? not the color. the angle.
Justasgood
Well-Known Member
It is adjustable but not sure it will flatten anymore.
Below is before the deck lid and hood were painted flat black
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o ya ... it needed the mat black ...lol
I finished the seats for this year. It took ten months to get the two sets of 71 Charger seat covers from Legendary interiors. I did four bucket seats, top and bottom of each and two rear seats, top and bottom of them as well. This is the last one! Like John Lennon once screamed.....I've got blisters on my fingers! Lol
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No water pump lubricant or rust inhibitor added in?? I'm running straight water in my stuff too but at least add that into the mix....
Working on my buddy's 440 build: First, his pistons were about .008" out of the hole. So I cut them .010" to whack-a-mole them back in.
Like all machining, first you have to make sure the cut will be absolutely square.
Once everything is all set up, then I could cut them all quickly with the repeatable setup. (P.S. The black on the piston is marker. It is used to find your zero as well as verify everything is square. When you can turn the black into gray, you know you are at your zero cut! From there, I dialed in a .010" cut.)
Here is a picture of one that is cut (on right) compared to one that isn't.
BUT, the pistons were still big, heavy PIGS. They weighed in at 885 grams each! I measured the dome thickness and they were .508" at the center and even thicker at the sides! So, I then cut .250" off the bottoms to lighten them up. The tool used here was a big 1" end mill with curved edges.
This was a bit of a pain in the butt, since cutting the "dogbone" shape had to be done somewhat freehand. So this took some time!
When I was done, I had cut about 75 grams out of each, and they are all within 2 grams of one another. The final step will be to take a butterfly bit and smooth them out underneath so there are no sharp edges (to induce a crack), as well as bring them all within 1/2 a gram of one another in weight. Then we can balance the entire reciprocating assembly and build a short block.
Like all machining, first you have to make sure the cut will be absolutely square.
Once everything is all set up, then I could cut them all quickly with the repeatable setup. (P.S. The black on the piston is marker. It is used to find your zero as well as verify everything is square. When you can turn the black into gray, you know you are at your zero cut! From there, I dialed in a .010" cut.)
Here is a picture of one that is cut (on right) compared to one that isn't.
BUT, the pistons were still big, heavy PIGS. They weighed in at 885 grams each! I measured the dome thickness and they were .508" at the center and even thicker at the sides! So, I then cut .250" off the bottoms to lighten them up. The tool used here was a big 1" end mill with curved edges.
This was a bit of a pain in the butt, since cutting the "dogbone" shape had to be done somewhat freehand. So this took some time!
When I was done, I had cut about 75 grams out of each, and they are all within 2 grams of one another. The final step will be to take a butterfly bit and smooth them out underneath so there are no sharp edges (to induce a crack), as well as bring them all within 1/2 a gram of one another in weight. Then we can balance the entire reciprocating assembly and build a short block.
Had the block been decked before Hawk? Usually the big block pistons aren't above deck.
I agree, they are usually below. This block is well used, and its history is not known. It has had work done to it before, and it obviously has been decked. Luckily a little piston trim and we should be all set!
What ever intake with or without spacers get it sealed.I agree, they are usually below. This block is well used, and its history is not known. It has had work done to it before, and it obviously has been decked. Luckily a little piston trim and we should be all set!
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Does/did the fuel inlet have the anti-roll over protection ball? My 95 Dakota did and took it out when I had the bed off. I use the truck as my 'tanker' whenever a storm rolls in instead of filling up a bunch of 5 gallon jugs (I do that too though).
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Ball end mill? I did some pistons some years back for a bud that was planning on running the funny gas and was skeptical because I took out way more than 75 grams lol. He was running a fully loaded road runner complete with a cage and that thing was 3900 lbs and ran high 10's with a good shot of that stuff. Several years later he went with a bigger engine and brought the slugs over to show me the damage.....and there was none!
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