Are you ready for a real weird one? Random NO spark from a MP electronic ignition system despite numerous parts swapped around...

[Kern Dog]

If you are looking into a new distributor, Rick ehernburg sells “better” built “factory” distributors. Comparing it to a cheapy rockauto special his claims might be true. There’s more weight to his, the cap looks and feels like it has more and stronger plastic. The brass terminals are thicker than the cheapy.

Unfortunately I’ve only had a week with it, so I can’t speak for it’s longevity, but just looking and feeling it, it seems like a quality unit

for Mopar Electronic Ignition Distributor RB-Engine Plym Dodge 440/413 Blk Cap | eBay

This is one option. I already have it in the shop on a shelf.

Mancini sells a ready to run that wont break the bank. Pro Series Ready to Run Distributor

Thank you. I'll check on that too.

Not as familiar with a 70, but they get power from the yellow start relay to the ballast?

Uhhh, I don't think so but the engine side harness is a reproduction from Evan's wiring. I have it partially unwrapped at the moment.

 

[RemCharger]

Ok I was going by your diagram on page 1...

 

[Kern Dog]

Ok I was going by your diagram on page 1...

Oh yeah...

The relay has a yellow wire on it. I don't recall if the ballast has one to it. I'll look and see.

 

[451Mopar]

I don't have issues with the distributor(s), they fire the CD ignitions just fine.
I'm actually running a factory lean-burn distributor with the Fi-Tech EFI on the Charger. No reason to spend $400 on the MSD distributor.

 

[Kern Dog]

I'm not against spending money if it is needed but I do love making stuff work that I already have.

 

[451Mopar]

Good luck Kern Dog. I tried to brain dump the issues I had with my ignition. Hope it helps.

 

[kiwigtx]

You mean run a wire all the way back here?

If that's what it takes, then YES is the answer.

(Looks like my money is safe)

 

[Bird 426]

I too had this problem, FBO module, by passed ballast, 1.5 ohm Petronics coil. I got lucky, in my case it was the coil, or was it? In other words, I am waiting, I still carry a coil and old chrome module. I have all new wiring and good grounding.
It does sound like you have an intermittent leak somewhere.
Good luck!

 

[68 Sport Satellite]

I'm waiting for results of the engine running test where it's idling and you methodically start wiggling wires and connections to see if you can replicate the failure.

If you go down the new distributor route, I really like my Firecore distributor with adjustable mechanical advance. I like what I've read about Rick E's distributor you're looking at also. Careful on the ready to run all in one offerings. Some of those may work okay, but I think most are taller than stock. I've also read many people having issues getting them to run correctly, possibly user error?

 

[Cranky]

(Looks like my money is safe)

 

[Kern Dog]

I’m in the shop. The battery is charged back to 12.3V and of COURSE it started right up. Repeatedly.
I mentioned dead ends awhile back. There is an 18g wire, green with red stripe that runs to the horn relay but the ECM plug also is the same color.

It may be hard to see. The one from the ECM plug dead ends and was wrapped up in the other wires and taped. The actual horn wire is actually attached to the horn where it belongs.

Here is the Rick Ehrenberg distributor:

It feels good. The shaft has no slip and rotated freely. The air gap is between.006 and .008 as per spec. It came with this ballast resistor:

I went to test the resistance to compare it to the BR I have in the car now but I’m having trouble getting a reading.
I have this tool:

At the lowest setting.

Do I have it on the wrong setting to test resistance?

 

[kiwigtx]

I’m in the shop. The battery is charged back to 12.3V and of COURSE it started right up. Repeatedly.
I mentioned dead ends awhile back. There is an 18g wire, green with red stripe that runs to the horn relay but the ECM plug also is the same color.

View attachment 1633774

It may be hard to see. The one from the ECM plug dead ends and was wrapped up in the other wires and taped. The actual horn wire is actually attached to the horn where it belongs.

Here is the Rick Ehrenberg distributor:

View attachment 1633779

View attachment 1633780

It feels good. The shaft has no slip and rotated freely. The air gap is between.006 and .008 as per spec. It came with this ballast resistor:

View attachment 1633782

View attachment 1633783

View attachment 1633784

I went to test the resistance to compare it to the BR I have in the car now but I’m having trouble getting a reading.
I have this tool:

View attachment 1633785

At the lowest setting.

View attachment 1633786

Do I have it on the wrong setting to test resistance?

That is not the lowest setting - switch it to "200"

That is maximum of 200 ohms.

 

[kiwigtx]

That is not the lowest setting - switch it to "200"

That is maximum of 200 ohms.

You should read approx 5.5 ohms - depending upon manufacturer

 

[RemCharger]

You should read approx 5.5 ohms - depending upon manufacturer

5.5?? Yikes!

 

[kiwigtx]

I’m in the shop. The battery is charged back to 12.3V and of COURSE it started right up. Repeatedly.
I mentioned dead ends awhile back. There is an 18g wire, green with red stripe that runs to the horn relay but the ECM plug also is the same color.

View attachment 1633774

It may be hard to see. The one from the ECM plug dead ends and was wrapped up in the other wires and taped. The actual horn wire is actually attached to the horn where it belongs.

Here is the Rick Ehrenberg distributor:

View attachment 1633779

View attachment 1633780

It feels good. The shaft has no slip and rotated freely. The air gap is between.006 and .008 as per spec. It came with this ballast resistor:

View attachment 1633782

View attachment 1633783

View attachment 1633784

I went to test the resistance to compare it to the BR I have in the car now but I’m having trouble getting a reading.
I have this tool:

View attachment 1633785

At the lowest setting.

View attachment 1633786

Do I have it on the wrong setting to test resistance?

 

[kiwigtx]

5.5?? Yikes!

It will pay for KD to test and confirm that..... it might be 0.55ohms. The one we get are labelled differently at times.

An 'R' number is not how to read the resistance per se.

 

[RemCharger]

It will pay for KD to test and confirm that..... it might be 0.55ohms. The one we get are labelled differently at times.

An 'R' number is not how to read the resistance per se.

I would expect to see around .8~1.2 area. This could be a problem lol

 

[Kern Dog]

I get 8 volts to the coil when in RUN.
The ballast gets about 8.1.

The multi meter needs a battery.

It is a small icon and I didn’t see it. Maybe it has enough charge to test battery voltage but not resistance. I will have to go out for a 9V battery. I can’t just rob one from a smoke detector….

 

[RemCharger]

I get 8 volts to the coil when in RUN.
The ballast gets about 8.1.

The multi meter needs a battery.

View attachment 1633797

View attachment 1633796

It is a small icon and I didn’t see it. Maybe it has enough charge to test battery voltage but not resistance. I will have to go out for a 9V battery. I can’t just rob one from a smoke detector….

Yes when the meter battery goes down you can get wonky readings

 

[68 Sport Satellite]

oh man, lots of obstacles...