the ballast resistor I use with my Firecore unit is 1 ohm. I imagine Rick's will be 0.8-1 ohm. Does the Rick E distributor have slots with screws to allow for adjustable mechanical advance without welding and grinding to set it?
Wild readings at times....lolYes when the meter battery goes down you can get wonky readings
I did have it wrong. I thought the 2K was the lowest setting.
No. Inside it looks like a stock unit. To use it, I would need to narrow the slots. I run 19 degree initial and 34 total. No detonation in 9.8 to 1. I’d need to shorten the advance curve via modifying or using that FBO plate. I’d need to look into that.the ballast resistor I use with my Firecore unit is 1 ohm. I imagine Rick's will be 0.8-1 ohm. Does the Rick E distributor have slots with screws to allow for adjustable mechanical advance without welding and grinding to set it?
So the Ballast resistor 'R55' is likely 0.55 ohms.I did have it wrong. I thought the 2K was the lowest setting.
Here we go. Here is the one that was in the car. View attachment 1633799
Here is the one from the RE distributor kit.
View attachment 1633800
It is strange that the RE ballast tests different than the print on it.
View attachment 1633802
Correct - otherwise you are adding to the total resistance.Roger stated that this is to be deducted from the total?
I still think the issue is at the bulkhead connector.
The slightest movement or change in temperature can make a change and either allow or deny you the ability to start the engine.
Dry here too but is the thinking to displace moisture or take up slack or both. The female could be “mushed a bit and the male maybe enlarged to carefully. I know they sell that harness but if you need another I have a good spare for ya just DM me and I’ll get it out to youI just read a tech topic response in Mopar Action that the terminals need to be cleaned and the pockets filled with some type of grease, even Vaseline. I know some if not all new cars did. Mine have always been dry.
BBL...I have chores....I'll catch up again on Page 8.
Had a 88 Dodge Shadow (a 2dr too) that did that when it got to operating temp.More ideas to consider from an A-body thread with similar symptoms:
Engine dies, but turn the key off and back on it fires right back up
this one is particularly interesting:
chased a problem where the car would start in the morning but sometimes not when already warmed up. (crank fine but no spark)
Ended up being the distributor pigtail loosing contact when it got warm.
Have seen do the opposite also.
Won't start in the morning, but would later in the day after it got warmer out.
If you live in a real dry climate, you'll probably never have a problem but if you live in my climate.....I just read a tech topic response in Mopar Action that the terminals need to be cleaned and the pockets filled with some type of grease, even Vaseline. I know some if not all new cars did. Mine have always been dry.
Check block two second from left looks pushed inHumidity isn’t bad here.
Maybe I’ll go ahead and get some of that Permatex Dielectric grease just as a precaution going forward.
See, I’ve been searching for an explanation of what may cause an intermittent issue that “corrects” itself with no intervention. A connection that vibrates and then reconnects is hidden from view and hard to pinpoint.
This may not be IT but it won’t make matters worse.
Here is the bulkhead as I unplugged the top two plugs.
View attachment 1633823
It looks dusty but not corroded.
View attachment 1633824
I had this stuff…
View attachment 1633825
View attachment 1633826
Okay, that does look better. Off to get that grease…