The Willomet Charger

[1970RT]

More bracing in advance of the new rocker beams and the rails that will connect them.

David

 

[1970RT]

That’s one of the larger rats nests I’ve seen.

David

 

[1970RT]

Just a bunch of rocker prep.

This side has a good bit more boogered up steel to repair.

David

 

[1970RT]

I take my dog on as many truck rides as I can. This included picking up a front tire for the Charger.

That’s bottomed on the inner fender brace, so it will take a bit of doing to get these to fit.

David

 

[1970RT]

Made some small adjustments to actually fit the fender.

Lots more chassis work, but I wanted to get a sense of direction.

David

 

[1970RT]

Today was all about rocker repair. Loads of boogered up steel.

16ga is pushing the capacity of my little tin bender.

Lots of notes helped me duplicate what I built 6 months ago.

David

 

[1970RT]

More rust repair.

I smoothed this transition, but didn’t get a photo - sliced, planish, planish some more, weld.

I use a rubber mallet and a couple of 2x4s to pound it into the general shape, and gently planish with the high crown and heel dolly to smooth.

Lots more repair work ahead.

David

 

[Greg Ducato]

Looking better every day!

 

[1970RT]

I (almost) forgot how many hours rust repair consumes.

Before:

About 14 hours later:

David

 

[Sixtynine_Bird]

Looks awesome! Great work! I've been there with my bird I know what it takes to get rid of that rust! Keep up don't get discourage by that rust! Well done! ;)

 

[Budnicks]

Nice project @1970RT

nice work

 

[1970RT]

AMD door jam pillars are only about $160, though I’m trying my hand at building this patch since I only need a part of it.

I’ll see how it goes, and decide whether or not to order the AMD part.

David

 

[1970RT]

Passenger rocker beam welded and cooling. To keep the warp to a minimum, I put a 1/4” negative bend in the beam and do the normal weld spacing with an air quench. When done, I release the tension and the beam is almost perfectly straight.

The AMD pillar is now in stock, and I’ll cut it up to make the few patches I need.

David

 

[1970RT]

Weekend plans: get these guys in and tacked to the car.

David

 

[1970RT]

Rockers are in, and at one with the unibody, along with the new mid-crossmember.

I’ll have to modify it to make room for the driveshaft and exhaust, but there’s plenty of time for that.

I took the whole day - 10 hours - to get everything perfectly level and square and parallel.

Worth it.

David

 

[1970RT]

Here’s where I’m at on the rear frame. I still have to trim a bit to be even with the beams, and you can see the dykem.

Didn’t have much time on it yesterday, but I’ve now got a pretty good idea on how the new frame will integrate to the old.

David

 

[1970RT]

Here's what I'm thinking about for reinforcing the factory 14ga rails.

Old school rally dudes would fully plate a frame in 1/8", which is as much about stiffening as it is about sustaining loads of abuse. I don't like the corrosion risk that would come from plating the entire frame, let alone all the added weight that comes from relying purely on material strength. And so, overlaying a truss design similar to the above is what I'm thinking, as increased beam strength is the main objective.

I think the rightmost pattern is what I'll apply across the whole of the rail.

David

 

[1970RT]

Starting to integrate the frame stubs into the new chassis.

Measured. Marked.

Trimmed. The frame won’t dip below the rockers.

4x2 mock-up

This is why frame plating is important. Making the 14ga have the same rigidity as the 11ga chassis should keep the rails from cracking at this mating joint.

Without tweaking, they’re within 1/4” of each other in terms of mirrored dimensions.

Tomorrow. Harry needs a walk.

David

 

[1970RT]

After 18 months, the rear rails are now connected to something more than just the frame table.

4x4 torque boxes mated to 4x2 rails

David

 

[Npulver]

Absolutely love the updates! Haven't been following for very long, but love the work you are doing. One question i have, how much extra weight do you think you'll be adding as an end product with the beefing up of the chassis? And another question (as im doing a resto mod charger myself) With you running a 305/30/19 in the front (which is what im running in the rear) what is your plans for the rear? Going with a square set for handling or going to add a touch wider out back?